Shed to Workshop Conversion

Tools the videos use: circular saw (a 60-tooth blade for the polycarbonate), angle grinder with a cutting disc for the metal roof panels, airless paint sprayer, drill and driver, sledgehammer, rented bull float, straight 2×6 for screeding, caulk gun, scaffolding or a step stool for the ceiling, and a paint roller with a three-quarter inch nap for the epoxy.

Materials listed across the series: half-inch rebar, concrete (three yards), expansion joint foam, self-leveling underlayment, 2×4 and 2×6 lumber, construction adhesive, polycarbonate panels (2 ft x 4 ft), roofing and self-tapping screws with rubber or soft washers, waterproof seam tape, spray foam, R13 batt insulation, half-inch and 3/8 in. plywood, 1×2, 1×4 trim, Kilz 3 primer, flat white paint, latex caulk, a garage-floor epoxy kit with chips and concrete etch, an underlayment membrane, 1×4 purlins, foam closure strips, 29 gauge corrugated galvanized panels, tinted semi-transparent wood finish, silicone sealant and 3/4 in. crushed gravel.

Time: the videos do not give total hours or days, so plan around your own shed's condition. The concrete pour is a one-day job that needs helpers.

Cost: the only prices the builder states are about $300-$350 (USD) for the three-yard concrete delivery and about $20 for a yard of 3/4 in. crushed gravel. He does not give a total, so price the lumber, insulation, roofing and finish at your own supplier before you commit.

Skill level: handy to advanced overall. Painting, trim and the epoxy floor suit a careful beginner. Concrete, structural repair and roofing are a step up.

• Structure first. The builder removed the loft rafters only after finding they were held in with drywall screws and were not structural. Never cut out a rafter, beam or wall until you know what it carries. If you can't tell, have a contractor or engineer look.
• Roofing is fall work. Use fall protection and wear gloves around cut metal panel edges. Cutting metal with an angle grinder throws sparks and noise, so wear eye and hearing protection.
• Respirator. The builder says plainly that he should have worn a respirator rated for spraying paint and finish, even outdoors. Do wear one.
• Concrete and etch. Wet concrete irritates skin, so wear gloves and eye protection. Follow the label on the concrete etch and epoxy kit, and ventilate.
• Permits. A slab, a roof replacement and any new electrical for a shop may need a permit where you live. Ask your local building department; our guide “Do you need a permit?” shows what to ask. The videos run no wiring, and shop wiring is a job for a licensed electrician.

• The slab front dried before it was screeded toward the door, so the surface came out rough. A self-leveling skim fixed it, but it is not as strong as concrete.
• Striping appeared on the exterior because the sprayer pressure was too low. Check the pressure before the first coat.
• Next time he would install the ten-foot and three-foot roof panels together and work down the roof, because the short end pieces were harder to fit under panels already in place.
• Screws on corrugated panels go on the ridges, not in the valleys, and snug only enough to squeeze the rubber washer.

This build follows the same order as Build a shed, with the shop finish work in Paint a room. The same channel built the DIY lean-to shed against a shed workshop. See also the Workshop and Exterior and yard pages, and the circular saw page for the main saw in the series.