Trimming a Window With a Custom MDF Sill and Box
The short version
A finish carpenter trims out an interior window with a custom MDF sill, a ripped and tapered MDF box, and 3 1/2 in. casing. He works from a measured legend, uses shims to hold a 1 1/2 in. reveal, and marks casing with a knife. His apprentice daughter helps with routing, painting and the bottom apron.
Full written account
A finish carpenter trims out a window in a house where the exterior windows were already done, and the interior detail calls for a custom sill built from 1 in. MDF. The reveal he is after is 1 1/2 in. on every side, and the whole job turns on measuring for that.
Measuring for the sill
The window measured 18 1/2 by 18 3/8. Adding 1 1/2 in. on each side makes the opening 21 1/2 in. in one direction and 21 3/8 in. in the other. He also notes the distance from the window back to the drywall, about 3 13/16 in. at one spot and 3 3/4 in. at another, and writes these on a drawing of the sill. He makes the rough-opening cut 1/2 in. smaller so it fits in nicely, at 23 1/2 in.
The trim is 3 1/2 in. wide, with a 1/2 in. lip from trim to sill and a 1/4 in. jamb reveal, giving 4 1/4 in. on each side. The sill length comes to 29 7/8 in. He cautions that these numbers depend on the reveals and are a general guide, not a bible.
The stock is not truly 3/4 in.; it is 11/16 in. So a 1/2 in. lip plus the stock gives 1 3/16 in., the setting for his combination square when marking.
Shaping and priming
His daughter, in the second week of her apprenticeship, routs the square edges with a 1/8 in. round-over bit backed off slightly so it is sharper, in one smooth counterclockwise motion, followed by a quick sand. A 10° back bevel is cut with a jigsaw to clear shims and caulk. Edges that meet the window and wall are primed with latex primer sealer and a roller, so painters do not need two coats of finish paint.
The box
The box is ripped to 21 3/8 in. inside, plus 11/16 in. for the top piece, making 22 3/16 in. The sides taper from 3 3/4 in. at the top to 3 13/16 in. at the bottom, cut with a track saw. Small pieces can kick out if pushed too fast.
The first cut came out at 3 11/16, and the top had to be recut. A fix came from the track's small holes: cabinet hinge screws pinned the track so it could not move. He nails the top first, then adds one screw in the middle; MDF splits with two.
Setting it
He uses a 1 1/2 in. block to check the reveal, shims to adjust, and checks level and the window's mitre welds. He nails only after checking the sides, cuts shims with a multi-tool, and leaves slack because gravity will settle the piece.
Casing
A 1/4 in. reveal is marked with the combination square. Casing is marked in place by eye and with a knife, which he says is more accurate than transferring measurements. Shims behind the top casing let him bring the miter flush. The apron is the same 29 in. length, and a glazier's bar is run over the nails to check none stick up.
Questions this video answers
What reveal does he use for the sill?
He aims for a 1 1/2 in. reveal all the way around the window.
What reveal does the casing have?
A 1/4 in. reveal, which he says is what they have been doing throughout the house.
Why prime the edges before installing?
The edge against the window would be hard for painters to reach without getting paint on the window.
How does he mark casing lengths?
With a knife, because the thin blade is nearly exact, rather than measuring and transferring with a pencil.
What material is used?
1 in. MDF, though he says finger joint pine would be better.