Why Both Sides of a Double Sink Clog: A T Fitting Diverter
The short version
Plumbing and heating contractor Richard Trethewey unclogs a double-bowl kitchen sink where both sides were backing up. He takes apart the disposer elbow, tail piece and T fitting and finds a plastic diverter in the T fitting is the choke point. He replaces it with a full-size brass T fitting with no baffle and tests by filling the bowl and draining it.
Full written account
Both bowls of a double-bowl kitchen sink were clogging, and the cause turned out to be a small plastic part inside the T fitting. Plumbing and heating contractor Richard Trethewey works through the drain to find it.
Reading the symptoms
The disposer sits on the right-hand side, with a regular sink strainer on the other bowl. A complaint confined to the side with the disposer suggests it isn't grinding food well enough. Here both sinks were clogging, so he looks for potential choke points in the drain underneath.
Where a drain can choke
He names three places to check: the disposer discharge, which runs into a pair of fittings (one black, one white); the T fitting where the strainer connection meets the disposer connection; and the P-trap. The trap keeps sewer gas from coming back from the sewer pipe up into the building, using a small water seal, but it can clog. If none of these is the problem, the pipe that goes down to the basement may have to be opened and cleaned.
Finding the culprit
The elbow from the disposer looks fine. He then breaks the tail piece coming down from the sink, where something doesn't look right, and then checks the T fitting, which is gunked up at the top.
Inside a new T fitting, the opening has a piece of plastic in the way. This diverter lets water from the strainer connection come down, while water from the right-hand sink is sent downward so there is less chance of it splashing up in the left-hand bowl. The diverter also makes the opening smaller, which he calls a perfect place to create a stoppage.
The replacement
He prefers a full-size brass T fitting with no baffle, and that is what goes in. The elbow fitting gets a new gasket and a nut. The flange tail piece has a special top gasket that sits down inside, and a nut holds it to the underside of the strainer. He snugs the nuts with pliers and installs a plug in the bottom of the trap.
Testing
Paper towel goes underneath to reveal drips while water runs. He says the only real test is to put the stopper in the left-hand bowl, fill it and let it discharge all at once. There were no drips, and it was draining really fast.
Questions this video answers
What caused the clog in this double-bowl sink?
A diverter, a small piece of plastic baffle inside the T fitting, narrows the opening. It is described as a perfect place for a stoppage, and here the fitting was gunked up at the top.
Which drain parts does he check?
The elbow from the disposer, the tail piece from the sink, the T fitting and the P-trap. Richard Trethewey checks the elbow, tail piece and T fitting first.
What does he install instead?
He prefers a full-size brass T fitting with no baffle.
How is the repair tested?
He puts paper towel underneath to check the connections, then fills the left bowl with the stopper in and lets it discharge all at once. There were no drips and it drained fast.
What does the trap do?
It keeps sewer gas from coming back from the sewer pipe up into the building, using a small water seal.